Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and lively culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city is no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
